Eddy's Le Clos bottling brought him into conflict with the bureaucrats of AOC Coteaux du Layon. On most harvests, this plot produces dry wines. That is, without boytritis on the vines, Eddy lacks the necessary residual sugar to make a demi-sec or moelleux in the manner traditional of the Layon.When Eddy submitted a sample to AOC Coteaux du Layon for approval, it was rejected on the grounds that it is a dry wine. Coteaux du Layon, Edddy was told, is a sweet wine. Eddy objected that he had met or exceeded AOC standards in every way and that the wine's sugar level was a reflection of what nature gives him on this particular plot. The AOC's response? They would happily designate the wine if Eddy were to add sugar to bring the wine in line with consumer expectations for a Coteaux du Layon. Eddy is a winemaker of great principle and when he says "no additives" he means "no f***ing additives." Hence, he declassified to AOC Anjou and told the folks in Beaulieu to buzz off. C'est la vie.

]]> Eddy Oosterlinck and his partner Mileine Bracke are making some of the most exciting boytrized sweet wines in all of France. Farming biodynamically, the winemakers adhere to a strict prohibition against chaptalization in any form (a maxim that even the triple-figure bottles from Sauternes have been known to break). Currently, they are single-handedly resurrecting the long denigrated (but historically regal) reputation of Coteaux du Layon- Faye, with "noble sweet wines" of great complexity. Eddy believes that a good Coteaux du Layon is distinguished not only by its sugar by also by its bitterness. This cuvee, something between a demi-sec and moelleux is, of course, ideal for savory desserts and cheeses but also for game terrines and fowl.  A very unique wine and one of my favorites for the year. Eddy also cultivates a lovely moustache that would make any California hipster jealous.

]]> This is Fanny Sabre's nod to the Pierre de Benoit of Bouzeron, with whom she had the chance to study a bit early on. The fruit comes from a vineyard formerly classified as AOC Pommard. A lovely "bistro wine," says Fanny. Strong mineral backbone with a touch of honey and wildflowers. This is a wine best enjoyed in large quantities, I think, perhaps from a carafe or some other rapidly dispensing device - a bota comes to mind.

]]> Fanny is 28 years old and has already managed to make some waves in Burgundy's conservative winemaking culture. The original French label of this bottling (rejected by our friends at the TTB) featured a young woman bending forward to toss a Petanque ball, and exposing her g-string. Not totally clear what this has to do with Pinot Noir. In any case, Fanny's notoriety goes beyond her risque labels. An early dicipline of Phillipe Pacalet, she values restraint and elegance above all else in her half dozen Cotes de Beaune micro-cuvees. While this is an entry-level bottling, it is hardly frivolous. This is a great time to get to know a young winemaker on the way up.

]]> Sebastien Bobinet inherited a few hectares of vines from his grandfather a few years back. Based in Saumur, he came of age as a winemaker under the tutelage of the Foucault brothers of Clos Rougeard. This is Sebastien's young-vines Cab Franc, which undergoes partial whole cluster fermentation. We took as much of this as we could, before the Parisian hipster sommelieres sacked the place. A beautiful and light Saumur red for immediate consumption. Those averse to Loire brett-bombs will find comfort here.

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